October in Hampstead marks the beginning of the maintenance season. The London plane trees that line our streets are shedding their leaves—beautiful to observe, but problematic for gutters. Night temperatures are dropping below 5°C, stressing heating systems and threatening exposed pipes. And the first autumn storms are exposing weaknesses in roofs, flashings, and drainage systems.

For homeowners who neglect autumn maintenance, winter brings consequences: burst pipes flooding ceilings, gutter overflow staining brickwork, boiler breakdowns on the coldest nights, and basement flooding during heavy rain. These are not acts of God—they are predictable failures that can be prevented by systematic preparation.

This is your comprehensive autumn checklist, tailored specifically to the building types, climate challenges, and infrastructure realities of North West London.

Week 1: External Inspection & Gutter Clearing

The priority is managing water. Blocked gutters cause 80% of winter water damage in Victorian and Edwardian properties—yet clearing gutters takes two hours and costs £150 if you hire a professional.

Inspect Gutters and Downpipes

The Problem Specific to Hampstead: The mature London planes, oaks, and beeches that make our streets beautiful shed vast quantities of leaves every October. These leaves accumulate in gutters, blocking water flow. When winter rain arrives, water overflows, cascading down brickwork, saturating mortar, and infiltrating through window heads.

What to Check:

1. Leaf Accumulation: Walk around the property and look up at gutters. If you see leaves or debris, they must be cleared. Even a partial blockage reduces capacity by 50%.

2. Gutter Sag: Victorian cast-iron gutters are heavy and old. Decades of weight cause fixings to fail, leading to sections that sag or pull away from the fascia. Water pools in the sag and overflows.

3. Downpipe Blockages: Leaves that pass through the gutter often lodge in downpipes, especially at the shoe (the 90-degree bend at ground level). Test by pouring a bucket of water into the hopper—it should drain within 10 seconds. If it backs up, the downpipe is blocked.

4. Hopper Heads: The decorative cast-iron hoppers at the top of downpipes collect water from multiple gutter runs. They frequently block with leaves and moss. Clear them out by hand (wear gloves—decades of decomposed organic matter is unpleasant).

DIY vs. Professional:

• DIY: If you have a stable ladder, ladder standoff (to protect gutters), and head for heights, clearing gutters is manageable. Scoop out debris by hand (use a gutter scoop or garden trowel), bag it, and flush gutters with a hose to confirm drainage.

• Professional: For three-story houses, complex rooflines, or if you are uncomfortable on ladders, hire a gutter clearing service (£120-£200 for a typical terrace). They use ladders or cherry pickers, have insurance, and can identify structural issues you might miss.

Frequency: Annually in October/November. If your street has particularly heavy tree coverage (Redington Road, Frognal, parts of Belsize Park), consider a mid-winter check in January.

Inspect Roof Coverings

While you or a contractor are at height, inspect the roof:

Clay Tiles: Look for cracked, slipped, or missing tiles. Wind lifts tiles during autumn storms, and frost cracks any that have absorbed water. A single missing tile allows rain to soak roof timbers, leading to rot.

Valleys and Flashings: The junctions between roof planes (valleys) and where the roof meets walls or chimneys (flashings) are sealed with lead. Over time, lead work hardens, cracks, or pulls away from brickwork. Water ingress through failed flashings is insidious—by the time you notice interior damp, significant damage has occurred.

Chimneys: Victorian chimneys are often unused but remain exposed to weather. Check for loose or missing chimney pots, deteriorated pointing, and cracks in the render. Water entering through chimney heads tracks down inside the flue and emerges in top-floor rooms as damp patches.

Moss and Vegetation: Moss retains moisture, accelerating tile degradation. It also blocks gaps between tiles, forcing water under tiles rather than allowing it to drain. Moss should be removed (carefully—don't damage tiles) and a biocide applied to prevent regrowth.

Action Required: If you identify issues, engage a roofer immediately. November-February is their quietest period, and response times are faster. Don't wait until the roof is leaking—reactive repairs cost 3-5x preventative maintenance.

Check External Drainage

Surface Water Drains: Many Hampstead properties have surface water drains in front gardens, patios, or driveways. These drains connect to Victorian-era surface water sewers (separate from foul sewers). Lift the grate and check for blockages—leaves, silt, and debris accumulate.

Gullies: The ground-level gully (drain) where downpipes discharge should be clear. Gullies have a U-bend trap to prevent sewer gases entering; this trap can block with silt. Clear it by hand or rod it with drain rods.

Soakaways: Some properties have soakaways (gravel-filled pits) that disperse surface water into the ground. These can become saturated or silted over time. If your garden floods during heavy rain, the soakaway may need excavating and refilling with fresh gravel—a job for a drainage contractor (£800-£1,500).

Week 2: Heating System Service

Your boiler will work harder in November-February than the rest of the year combined. A failure in January—when every plumber in North London is booked solid—means days without heating. Service it now.

Boiler Service

Why It Matters: Modern condensing boilers (fitted in most Hampstead homes post-2010) are efficient but complex. They have electronic controls, sensors, and pumps that can fail. An annual service:

• Cleans the heat exchanger (soot and deposits reduce efficiency by 10-15%)
• Checks the flue for blockages (carbon monoxide risk)
• Tests safety valves and pressure relief systems
• Identifies worn components before they fail

When to Book: September or October. By November, plumbers are fully booked. A service costs £90-£150 and takes 60-90 minutes.

What Happens: The engineer will inspect, clean, test, and certify the boiler. If they identify issues (worn seals, failing pumps, low pressure), address them immediately—parts are in stock now; in January, you will wait a week.

Older Boilers: If your boiler is 15+ years old (pre-2010), consider replacement. Old boilers are 70-75% efficient (25p in every £1 of gas is wasted); modern condensing boilers are 92-95% efficient. Replacement costs £2,500-£4,000 but pays back in 5-7 years through lower bills and eliminates breakdown risk.

Bleed Radiators

Air accumulates in radiators over summer, preventing circulation. Rooms feel cold even though the boiler is running. Bleeding is a 30-minute DIY task:

1. Turn off Heating: Let the system cool.
2. Open Bleed Valve: Use a radiator key (£2 from hardware stores). Hold a cloth under the valve and turn anti-clockwise. Air will hiss out.
3. Close When Water Appears: As soon as water drips out, close the valve. Repeat for every radiator.
4. Check Boiler Pressure: Bleeding reduces system pressure. Check the boiler pressure gauge—it should read 1.0-1.5 bar when cold. If lower, top up via the filling loop (consult boiler manual or call engineer).

Insulate Pipes

Pipes in unheated spaces (lofts, basements, external walls) are vulnerable to freezing. Frozen pipes burst, flooding ceilings when they thaw. Prevention costs £20; repair costs £2,000+.

Loft Pipes: Any pipework above insulation (i.e., in the cold zone) must be insulated. Use foam pipe insulation (£1-£2 per meter from DIY stores). Cut to length, slit lengthways, snap around the pipe, and tape joints.

External Walls: Pipes running on external walls (common in kitchens and bathrooms) can freeze during prolonged cold. Insulate with foam or, for exposed pipes, use self-regulating heating cable (electrical tape that warms pipes when temperatures drop below 3°C).

Basement Pipes: If your basement is unheated (used for storage or plant rooms), insulate all pipework.

Check the Expansion Vessel and Pressure

Modern sealed heating systems have an expansion vessel—a red tank that accommodates pressure changes as water heats and expands. If the vessel fails, the pressure relief valve discharges, flooding the boiler and surrounding area.

How to Test: Check the boiler pressure gauge when the system is cold (1.0-1.5 bar is correct). If it is below 0.5 bar or above 2.5 bar, the system needs attention. Low pressure means a leak or failed vessel; high pressure means a failed vessel or overfilling.

Call an engineer if pressure is abnormal—this is not a DIY repair.

Week 3: Internal Preparation

Inspect Basement for Water Ingress

Basements in Hampstead are vulnerable to water infiltration, especially in heavy rain. Victorian terraces were not built with damp-proof membranes; water enters through porous brickwork or rising through floors.

Check for Damp Signs:

• Efflorescence: White salt deposits on brick or concrete surfaces indicate moisture evaporation.
• Musty Odors: Persistent damp smells signal ongoing moisture problems.
• Peeling Paint or Plaster: Moisture behind finishes causes bubbling and flaking.
• Standing Water: Puddles after rain indicate inadequate drainage.

Sump Pump Maintenance: If your basement has a sump pump (standard in excavated basements), test it:

1. Pour Water into the Sump: The pump should activate automatically and discharge water (usually to an external drain or soakaway).
2. Check the Alarm: Most sumps have a high-level alarm. Test it to ensure it works.
3. Backup Power: If your sump pump is critical (basement bedroom or office), consider a battery backup system (£300-£600). Pumps fail when power fails during storms—exactly when you need them.

If the pump doesn't activate or is noisy, call a drainage engineer. Replacement pumps cost £400-£800 installed.

Test Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms

With windows closed and heating running, alarm systems are essential. Test every alarm (press the test button) and replace batteries. Alarms older than 10 years should be replaced—sensors degrade over time.

Carbon Monoxide Alarms: Required by law within 3m of any combustion appliance (boiler, gas fire). If you have a gas boiler, you must have a CO alarm in the same room or adjoining hallway.

Check Loft Insulation

Heat rises. An uninsulated or under-insulated loft wastes 25% of your heating energy. Current Building Regulations recommend 270mm of insulation (two layers of 100mm + 170mm laid crossways).

What to Check:

• Depth: Measure the insulation. If it is less than 200mm, top up. Loft insulation costs £15-£25 per sqm for DIY or £300-£600 for professional installation (typical loft).
• Gaps: Check around the loft hatch, eaves, and around pipes or cables. Gaps allow heat to escape. Fill with insulation offcuts.
• Compression: Insulation works by trapping air. If you have stored boxes on top of insulation, it is compressed and ineffective. Use loft boards raised on legs to create a storage platform without compressing insulation.

Draught-Proof Doors and Windows

Victorian and Edwardian homes are characteristically draughty—original sash windows and paneled doors were not designed to be airtight. Draughts make rooms uncomfortable and increase heating bills by 10-20%.

Solutions:

• Brush Strips: Self-adhesive brush strips fitted to the bottom of doors block draughts at floor level (£5-£10 per door).
• Sash Window Draught-Proofing: Specialist companies fit brush seals into the sash channels, eliminating draughts without affecting operation (£60-£100 per window). This is far better than secondary glazing, which ruins aesthetics.
• Letterbox Draught Excluders: Fit a brush or flap inside letterboxes to prevent cold air entering (£8-£15).
• Chimney Balloons: If chimneys are unused, insert an inflatable chimney balloon (£15-£25) to block draughts. These are removable if you want to use the fireplace.

Week 4: External Groundworks and Garden

Inspect Paving and Drainage

Frost heave—where water trapped under paving freezes, expands, and lifts paving slabs—is common on poorly installed patios and paths. Cracked or lifted slabs are tripping hazards and allow water to pool against house walls.

What to Do:

• Re-bed Loose Slabs: Lift affected slabs, add sand and cement mix, re-lay.
• Fill Cracks: Use external paving grout or mortar to fill cracks (prevents water ingress).
• Check Drainage: Paved areas should drain away from the house. If water pools against walls, re-grade or install a drainage channel.

Protect External Taps

External taps and garden irrigation systems can freeze and burst. Before the first frost:

1. Turn Off Supply: Locate the isolating valve (usually under the kitchen sink) and close it.
2. Drain the Tap: Open the external tap and leave it open to drain residual water.
3. Insulate: Fit an insulated tap cover (£5-£10 from garden centers).

If you have an automatic irrigation system, drain it and blow out residual water with an air compressor (or hire a professional to winterize it).

Prune Trees and Shrubs

Autumn is the correct time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs (once leaves have fallen). Overgrown branches can damage gutters, roofs, or walls during winter storms. Prune back to 1-2 meters from the house.

Do Not Prune:

• Trees with TPOs (Tree Preservation Orders): Check with Camden Council before pruning. Unauthorized work can result in £20,000 fines.
• Flowering Shrubs That Bloom in Spring: These set buds in autumn; pruning now removes next year's flowers. Prune after flowering (April-May).

Clear Leaves from Lawns

Fallen leaves smother grass, blocking light and promoting fungal diseases. Rake or use a leaf blower to clear lawns weekly through October-November. Compost the leaves (takes 12-18 months to break down) or use them as mulch in borders.

Emergency Preparedness: What to Have Ready

Winter brings risks: power cuts during storms, burst pipes, boiler failures. Prepare an emergency kit:

Tools and Supplies:

• Stopcock Key: Know where your main water stopcock is (usually under the kitchen sink or outside near the property boundary). If a pipe bursts, turning off the stopcock stops flooding.
• Torch and Batteries: Power cuts are rare but disruptive. Keep a powerful torch (and spare batteries) accessible.
• Plumber's Contact: Save the number of a reliable 24-hour plumber. During a crisis, finding one takes hours.
• Space Heaters: If your boiler fails, electric space heaters keep one room habitable (£40-£80 from Argos or B&Q).

Emergency Contacts:

• Thames Water (Water Leaks): 0800 714 614
• UK Power Networks (Power Outages): 105
• Camden Council (Fallen Trees, Road Flooding): 020 7974 4444

When to Call Professionals

Some tasks are DIY-friendly (gutter clearing, bleeding radiators, draught-proofing). Others require professionals:

Call a Roofer If:

• Multiple tiles are slipped or missing
• Flashings are cracked or pulled away
• Chimneys show structural cracks
• Leaks are visible inside

Call a Plumber If:

• Boiler pressure is abnormal
• Radiators remain cold after bleeding
• You suspect pipe leaks (damp patches, water stains)
• Sump pump fails

Call an Electrician If:

• Exterior lights or sockets stop working (water ingress is a common cause)
• Frequent circuit breaker trips during wet weather (indicates moisture in wiring)

The Value of Preventative Maintenance

The total cost of the checklist—gutter clearing (£150), boiler service (£120), pipe insulation (£50), draught-proofing (£100)—is approximately £420. The cost of not doing it:

• Burst Pipe Repair + Ceiling Replacement: £2,000-£5,000
• Emergency Boiler Replacement (January): £4,500+ (vs. £2,800 if planned)
• Water Damage to Electrics or Joinery: £3,000-£10,000
• Gutter Overflow Causing Brick Spalling: £5,000-£15,000 for repointing entire façade

The economic case is clear. The inconvenience case is even clearer—spending a November weekend on maintenance is preferable to spending a January weekend managing a flooded ceiling.

Conclusion

Hampstead's period properties are beautiful but demanding. They were built 100-150 years ago using materials and techniques that require active stewardship. Neglect is not benign—it is destructive.

This checklist is not alarmist. Every item addresses a failure mode we see repeatedly in North West London homes: blocked gutters causing brick deterioration, unserviced boilers failing mid-winter, uninsulated pipes bursting, damp basements flooding.

The homeowners who avoid these failures are not lucky—they are systematic. They clear gutters every autumn, service boilers annually, and address small issues before they become expensive emergencies.

For those who would prefer not to manage this themselves, the Hampstead On-Demand App allows residents to book these exact checks instantly, ensuring your home is prepared for winter without requiring you to coordinate multiple contractors.